Royally yours!!! - Rajasthan Travel Guide

Rajasthan - the most visited Indian State by foreign travelers; remains true to its reputation. Though its not on the travel maps of Indians; you will fall in love with the state on the first glimpse of it. It is full of history, architecture, colors, hospitality, life, etc etc... In short it is ROYAL... thoroughly... Even the smallest of the smallest and most obnoxious hotel here is named as 'xyz palace' or 'pqr mehal'. But barring this irony, there is some exquisite touch to this state.

Keeping with our tradition of natural disaster, with every destination we (me and my wife - by the way it was our 2nd honeymoon) visit, we were greeted by thundershowers in the middle of the Thar Desert (that's the name of the desert of Rajasthan) . So in Andaman it was a hurricane 'Thanes' (you can read the review here at: An escape from thanes hurricane - Andaman) and there were heavy rains at night and chilly windy climate in the afternoons in Rajasthan. It was so cold - that I had to wear a sweater at 3 O' Clock in the afternoon.

Anyways moving ahead, here is the Rajasthan travel review:

Best Season: October - March (winters are best as for most of the India, rainfall is scanty and summers are crazily hot)

Peak Season: 15th Nov - 15th Feb (Heaviest Rush is observed between 15th Dec - 15th Jan and thus high fares)

I visited: 13th Feb - 22nd Feb 2013

Itinerary at a glance: Pune - Jaipur - Ajmer - Pushkar - Jaisalmer - Mount Abu - Udaipur - Ranthambore - Jaipur - Pune.

Approx Cost for 2: Rs. 80K/- (decent hotels, air fare and non AC Tata Indica) (during the long afternoon journeys from one destination to other you might want to put on the AC of the car.)

: Route Map :

Follow the link: Rajasthan Tour Map for actual map.

: Travel Itinerary and Quick Tips :

Ratings Indicate:-

Extremely Great:  A⁺⁺⁺, Great: A⁺⁺, Good: A⁺, Nice: A, Okay: B, Bad: C, Worse: C^-, Worst: C^--, Extremely Worst: C^---.

Day	Origin – Destination	Travel Time	Stay	Airline / Hotel	Seat / Room Type	Itinerary	Cost for 2 (as on Feb 2012)
1	Pune – Jaipur	2 hrs (Early Morning Flight)	-	Spice Jet	Economy	-	6000
	Jaipur – Ajmer	3 hrs	-	-	-	Ajmer Sharif Dargah	-
	Ajmer – Pushkar	45 mins	Pushkar	Satyam Palace	Standard (CP meal plan)	Savitri Temple, Brahma Temple, Pushkar Lake - Varah Ghat Prayers in the Evening, Parikrama.	2000
	Ratings:	Destination: Pushkar – A+, Ajmer – C-- | Hotel: B for 1 night stay
	Tips: 1.     Don’t rely on Spice Jet timings our flight got delayed by 7 hrs. Thus the whole itinerary for the day went for a toss. (We had to shift Pushkar sightseeing on the next day and we had to skip Varah Ghat Prayers and Parikrama) 2.     Ajmer Sharif Dargah – had heard a lot about it. But not even for a second we felt any positivity – leave aside divinity in the Dargah. At every nook and corner of the shrine you would be asked to shell out money by your guide. So best way is to avoid guides all together– but I know it would be impossible for you because they catch hold of you some way or the other and once you are with tem then they start their money making game: ‘ye so and so well - matha teko, ye heaven or so pond – matha teko, hath fakir ko dikhao - matha teko’. Aur jaha jaha matha teko waha waha apana pocket halaka karo (lose your cash). 3.     Satyam Palace is far from main Pushkar City. 4.     Pushkar supposedly has the only Brahma (one of the trinity of Hinduism – God of creation) temple in the world. (You will find lot of ‘Only Brahma Temples in the world’ on the go; but one at Pushkar is the authentic one). It is situated on the banks of Pushkar lake and the entire ambience is enchanting. 5.     Savitri Temple : She is the goddess of Wisdom and Knowledge and wife of Brahma. Because of some curse her shrine is away from main city on a nearby hillock. An average person can climb up the stairs and the view from the top is worth the pain you had taken for the climb. Do not forget to take your camera. (I did not).   [View from Hotel Satyam Palace] [Pushkar Lake]
	Shop:	Rose and Sandal dhoop (conical shaped) and Sandal syrup for milk shakes from the stalls near the Brahma temple.
Day	Origin – Destination	Travel Time	Stay	Airline / Hotel	Seat / Room Type	Itinerary	Cost for 2 (as on Feb 2012)
2	Pushkar – Jaisalmer	6.5 hrs as per Google but consider 8 – 9 hrs	Jaisalmer	Winds Desert Camp	Tent – Standard (AP meal plan)	At leisure	4000
3	Jaisalmer		Jaisalmer	Winds Desert Camp	Tent – Standard	Jaisalmer Fort – Sonal Killa, Jain Temple (8 – 12 pm), Gadisar lake, Patwon-ki-Haveli, Camel Sakari / Jeep Ride	4000
	Ratings:	Destination: A++ | Hotel: A
	Tips: 1.     Jaisalmer – it’s called Golden City 2.     Roads were bad so better to start early. But as we saw all the Pushkar attractions on the 2nd day morning (thanks to Spice Jet flight time changes), we reached Jaisalmer well after 9 p.m. 3.     On the way just don’t miss Mirchi Bade and Pyaj Bade (deep fried chilly or onion dumplings, मिरचीची भजी / कांद्याची भजी). So yummy!!! 4.     Go for a camel safari in the desert on the same evening (if time permits). It was part of our hotel package. 5.     Winds Desert Camp is around 30 – 40 Kms from main city in the middle of Desert. It might be wise to stay here on the day of arrival and enjoy local music and dance organised by the hotel free of cost and 2nd day move to some other hotel in actual Jaisalmer city. 6.     Patwaoinki Haveli – Patwas are the people who make the gold ornaments. There some 5 such haveli’s next to each other made because of the profits they made by lending money to the Kings of Jaisalmer. Haveli no. 1 at the entrance has been restored to its past glory by the government and turned in to a museum. Don’t miss the guided tour of this haveli. Rest of the havelies are abandoned and thus stink of Bat excreta.  But these havelies are architecture marvel and a must visit spot in Jaisalmer. 7.     Jaisalmer fort – it’s the only leaving fort at least in India. That means people are living in this fort. Fort is closed for vehicular traffic (auto rickshaws / cars / scooters etc) from morning till 12 pm. afterwards you can hire an auto rickshaw to roam in and around the fort. We preferred walking. Hire a guide who will take you through the key attractions in the fort. There are lot of in house eatery type restaurants in the fort. You can enjoy your lunch at ‘Free Tibet Restaurant’ here. 8.     We skipped Jain Temples (located inside Sonal(/r) Killa). 9.     Bhang Lassi – There are couple of government authorised (now this authorization has been revoked in line with the new laws) flavoured Bhang (Indian hemp / Hashish) Lassi (thick sweetened buttermilk) selling joints. Look out for the one certified by ‘Burrp!’. If you are having it for the 1st time, tell the shop owner to prepare a mild concoction and don’t have more than 1 glass and definitely not on empty stomach.  It takes considerable time to get a high from Bhang and effects of excess consumption could vary from simple dehydration, hallucinations to near lethal. [Folk Entertainment at Hotel] [Camel Safari] [Chilly afternoon] [Now you know why it is called Golden City] [Patwaonki Haveli - External View] [Patwaonki Haveli - Interior View] [Sun Rise at Thar Desert] [Winds Desert Camp]
	Shop:	Bhang infused cookies / chocolates. But I suggest you don’t buy them.
Day	Origin – Destination	Travel Time	Stay	Airline / Hotel	Seat / Room Type	Itinerary	Cost for 2 (as on Feb 2012)
4	Jaisalmer – Mount Abu	6.5 hrs as per Google but consider 9 – 10 hrs	Mount Abu	The Jaipur House	Standard	At leisure	3100
5	Mount Abu		Mount Abu	The Jaipur House	Standard	Dilwara Temples, Nakki Lake, Sunset Point, Honeymoon Point, Brahma Kumari's Universal Peace Hall, Guru Shikhar, Trevors Tank	3100
	Ratings:	Destination: A++ | Hotel: A++ if you can afford higher category rooms
	Tips: 1.     Mount Abu is the only hill station in Rajasthan. It’s on Rajasthan – Gujarat border. 2.     Honeymoon point is a typical lookout point in a Hill Station. We skipped Trevor’s Tank. 3.     You might want to skip Brahma Kumari’s Universal Peace Hall and Peace Park instead go for Hot air balloon ride near nakki lake / Gaumukh / Trevorse Tank etc. 4.     Dilwara Temples are architectural marvels in smooth white marbles. This Jain temple complex instantly soothes your mind and soul. If you are lucky and visit here when there is less rush, punditji might ask you to come inside sub sanctorum (area just above garbhagriha). 5.      Nakki lake freezes during peak winter period but otherwise its open for paddle boating. You get yummy ice-creams in the shops / hotels in and around the Nakki Lake. This lake is said to be formed by Lord Brahma by scratching the earth with his Nail. 6.     Guru Shikhar – you need to climb few steps after parking slot to reach guru shikhar. It is dedicated to God Dattatreya (Combined incarnation of Lord Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh). 7.     Sunset Point – there is no need to take the services of porters to reach the point from parking slot. You can easily walk down if you have reached the place in time.   [Stone Quarry on the way] [At Honeymoon Point] [View from Honeymoon Point] [Sun Set Point]
	Shop:	Nothing Special
Day	Origin – Destination	Travel Time	Stay	Airline / Hotel	Seat / Room Type	Itinerary	Cost for 2 (as on Feb 2012)
6	Mount Abu – Udaipur	3 hrs as per Google but consider 4 hrs	Udaipur	Karohi Haveli	Deluxe – non lake facing (CP meal plan)	Udaipur City Palace, Saheliyonki badi, Solar Observatory, Eklingaji Temple / Karni Mata Ropeway, Animal Shelter and Rescue Centre	3000
	Ratings:	Destination: A+++ | Hotel: A++
	Tips: 1.     Udaipur – city of lakes 2.     Karohi Haveli welcomes you in a room with large French windows and typical Rajasthani linens and bed covers. Though the way to this hotel is from the small lanes and by lanes and car parking space is at the back of the hotel away from main gate, it is worth the bet. 3.     I felt the entry fee to Udaipur city palace is bit on a higher side, but they have maintained it nicely. 4.     Nothing special about Saheliyonki Badi (Garden of Maids). 5.     Take a rope way to Karni Mata Temple , which is highest point in the city and gives you a great view of the city. Unfortunately there isn’t any good joint, restaurant on this hilltop. 6.     Best part of being in Udaipur is its laid back evenings. Leave your room after sunset, shop a bit and sit in a lake side shack and enjoy the street food. 7.     I personally felt that we would have easily enjoyed 1 more day in this city.    [City Palace - Peacock Square] [City Palace - Peacock Square] [City Palace] [City Palace] [Udaipur City View from the Palace] [150+ years Belgium Crystals] [City Palace] [Taj Lake Palace] [Night View of City Palace]
	Shop:	Typical Rajasthani styled Bed Covers and Pillow Covers
Day	Origin – Destination	Travel Time	Stay	Airline / Hotel	Seat / Room Type	Itinerary	Cost for 2 (as on Feb 2012)
7	Udaipur – Ranthambore	6 hrs as per Google but consider 8 - 9 hrs	Ranthambore	Tiger Machan Resort	Luxury Tent (AP meal plan)	3 pm jeep safari in Park	4500
8	Ranthambore		Ranthambore	Tiger Machan Resort	Luxury Tent (AP meal plan)	6 am and 3 pm jeep safari in Park	4500
	Ratings:	Destination: A+++ | Hotel: A
	Tips: 1.     On the way from Udaipur our driver knew about the Bhimlat water fall and Mahnal Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva which finds very little to no mention on the web. Though there wasn’t any water pouring down due to season, this temple near Menal is a must visit spot. [Mahnal Temple - World Heritage Site] 2.     Also, before Ranthambore, there is a turn for Haldi Ghati which has turmeric coloured yellow soil and thus the name. If you want you can reduce one day stay or reach late in Ranthombore and can accommodate Haldi Ghati. 3.     Most widely photographed Tiger reserve by Discovery, Animal Planet etc in search of Great Bengal Tigers but still you have to be really lucky to sight a tiger. So book as much safaris as possible. 4.     We spotted a tigress but couldn’t capture it as I don’t know why my camera went on a pet mode and I couldn’t focus. 5.     Park remains close from June to October (during the monsoon) and even the online safari bookings are closed. 6.     But please make sure to book the slots as soon as booking opens as slots get full within short time span. 7.     Morning time is the best time to spot the tigers. 8.  Summer is the best season to spot the tigers. 9.     Hotel is located at a great distance from registration counter. You can avoid this hotel. Its owned by the same group as Winds Desert Camp, Jaisalmer.  [Crocodile] [Owl] [Peacock] [Sambar] [Spotted Dear] [Wild Hen] [Wild Boar] [Black Cormorant] [Ruddy Shel Ducks] [Oldest Banyan Tree in the Park] [Ibis] [Parakeets] [Peacock] [King Fisher] [Entrance] [Lapwing] [Stilt]
	Shop:	Nothing Much – you may think of buying souvenir Ranthambore / tiger printed T-shirts / Caps etc
Day	Origin – Destination	Travel Time	Stay	Airline / Hotel	Seat / Room Type	Itinerary	Cost for 2 (as on Feb 2012)
9	Ranthambore – Jaipur	2.5 hrs as per Google but consider 4 hrs	Jaipur	Umaid Bhavan	Royal Deluxe (CP Meal Plan)	Birla Temple, Amber Fort(Sound and Light Show), Jaigahr Fort, City Palace, Jal Mahal, Hava Mahal,	2600
	Ratings:	Destination: A++ | Hotel: A+++
	Tips: 1.     Jaipur – Pink City. 2.     By the time we reached Jaipur, we were so tired of travelling that we skipped Jaigahr Fort, Jal Mahal and Hava Mahal, Jantar Mantar. But if you wish to cover these destinations, you should think of extending your stay in Jaipur by a day. 3.     Umaid Bhavan rooms are far better than the money they charged, With a bedroom and different sitting area, it is the best hotel amongst the ones I visited so far. 4.     Lot of movies have been shot in Amber Fort. The entrance gate is so colourful that aesthetically I would rate it higher than the ‘Taj Mahal’. 5.     A glimpse of City Palace and you would know why Jaipur is called as Pink City. If you opt for a audio guide then make sure your reach here well before 3 pm as they close their office sharp at 5pm and we had to leave it in between. 6.     Birla temple is definitely a serene chain temple monuments built in recent times. [City Palace - Pink City] [Silver Pot - taken to England by king of Jaipur for the coronation of the queen of England] [Sheesh Mehal at Amber Fort] [Amber Fort - Main Entrance] [Amber Fort Pol (Door)] [Amber Fort] [Kesar Garden at Amber Fort]
	Shop:	There is government run cottage industry shop near Amber Fort you will get good quality quilts / bed covers here. MG market is for cheap goods and Mojadi (Rajasthani styled shoes) shopping.
Day	Origin – Destination	Travel Time	Stay	Airline / Hotel	Seat / Room Type	Itinerary	Cost for 2 (as on Feb 2012)
10	Jaipur – Pune	2.5 hrs		Spice Jet	Economy	Even this flight was pre-poned.	6000
Travel cost – by non AC Indica							25000
9 nights 10 days				Total Cost (for two):			67800

General Tips:

1.     Travel sector in Rajasthan has developed really nice. By far it’s the best in India.

2.     But road conditions are really bad.

3.     If you are shopaholic, you might end up spending a lakh of ruppes for two in Rajasthan.

4.     Indeed it is an experience to behold

You can checkout rest of the snaps here: Rajasthan Photos

Travel Guide Ref: www.wikitravel.com (Please visit the site for latest updates)

Next: Gujarat Travel Guide: Gleaming Gujarat! Gujarat travel guide

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